Pavako RC Engineering
Y6 Copter Build Part 4
Assemble the complete battery camera chassis part using six M3x8 mm screws. Secure with loc-tite.
© 2015 P. van Kooten
Now glue in place the "battery-door" part. This part should give more stiffness to the carrier, since it is assemble using two slots in the bottom plate. Use a few drops cyanoacrylate glue. I used the ZAP-CA Thin variant from ZAP.
Naza wiring harnass for the motor connections
For the ESC's (all motor connections) I used some wire mesh guard to create a nice harnass that holds all the motor wires together. The type I used is from Hobbyking HK-9171000609-0. Make sure to use zip ties to each end of the wires mesh guard to avoid that the harnass shifts. Refer to pictures below. Remove the plastic connectors first to make the sliding of the cables inside the harnass easier.
For the ESC's (all motor connections) I used some wire mesh guard to create a nice harnass that holds all the motor wires together. The type I used is from Hobbyking HK-9171000609-0. Make sure to use zip ties to each end of the wires mesh guard to avoid that the harnass shifts. Refer to pictures below. Remove the plastic connectors first to make the sliding of the cables inside the harnass easier.
Then use double sided tape to secure the NAZA controller. Make sure it will be fitted on the center of all three upper arms. The distance to the front is approximately 60 mm
Now mount the GPS boom holder and stick the GPS module with the red arrow towards the front of the Y6 frame. Secure the wire with some zip ties and make sure the overlength is folded onto the frame. Mount the receiver to the frame, using double sided tape. Follow the connection diagram as per DJI instruction.
Balancing of the propellors
Balancing of the propellors is quite important since good balanced props will minimize vibration of the frame. I used the aeronaut prop balancer (order number 7329/31). Each propellor is been tightened into the balancer and placed onto two drinking glasses. This will minimize the friction and can indicate which side of the propellor blade is too heavy. I used tape to increase the weight of the opposite site until the propellor is completely in balance in every position. The pictures below show the results.
Install all propellors onto the motors using a allan key. Make sure all logos are pointing upwards. The propellors that have the "R" indication should go on the bottom three motors. Those are the CW propellors. The three upper propellors are the CCW propellors. Be sure to follow the DJI instructions in regards to rotation direction.
Once finished the Y6 Copter looks like the picture below
Antenna holder
To get a proper 90 degrees angle between both receiver antenna's I made a small antenna holder from two pieces of plastic tube, each approximately 8 cm. Both pieces are glued onto a 90 degrees L-shaped pcb that is fitted onto the corner screw near the receiver. Refer to pictures below.
After both tubes are glued onto the L-shaped PCB I painted it black cause it looks nicer :)
Landing skids and Center of Gravity (C.O.G)
Now its time to fix the landing skids. Those were not yet tightened because not all components were installed. I used a wooden rod to figure out the center of the landing-skids. Refer to picture below. Make sure the camera is also installed and the battery is in place.
The location of the red line should match the middle of each landing skid. Once determined use the bolt to tighten the landing skid.
The first motor tests were done outside. Make sure to stay away from the propellors as the drone shall not be used as a meat chopper. Rotating propellors are very dangerous, especially this size of propellors.
Upgrade and preparation for On Screen Display
To enable all features for OSD (On Screen Display) I decided to replace the existing PMU V1 into a PMU V2. This Power Manangement Unit does have the CAN bus option that has all parameters of the Flight Controller available to send to a base station on the ground. Those inflight parameters are important to have.
Finally the iOSD mini is installed that is connected to the CAN bus of the DJI PMU V2, refer to picture below
Video Transmitter installation
The video transmitter is a 600mW 40CH 5.8GHz transmitter. I selected this transmitter because of it's large input voltage range and the size is very compact. (30x22x8mm). The weight is only 9.0 gram. Because I do not want any possible interference with the 2.4 GHz transceiver I decided to install the transmitter on one of the landing legs of the Y6. I used a piece of FR-4 material (approximately 35x35mm with 6 holes) for installation. Refer to the pictures below.
The video transmitter is a 600mW 40CH 5.8GHz transmitter. I selected this transmitter because of it's large input voltage range and the size is very compact. (30x22x8mm). The weight is only 9.0 gram. Because I do not want any possible interference with the 2.4 GHz transceiver I decided to install the transmitter on one of the landing legs of the Y6. I used a piece of FR-4 material (approximately 35x35mm with 6 holes) for installation. Refer to the pictures below.
I painted the FR-4 piece black cause it looks nicer :). The Video TX is now installed and ready for the wiring, this will be done in a later stage.
FPV Camera installation
For the First Person View camera I took the FC109 camera from Hobbyking. It has 600 TV lines resolution and is capable to support PAL or NTSC video output format. This mini camera has a highly sensitive sensor that provides excellent video quality at low illumination, particularly as the camera has been specially tuned for handling light under challenging FPV conditions. Since the camera connection is as simple as plugging the supplied harness into the back and then into the iOSD module system. The camera is robust, easy to install and small enough to fit almost anywhere. For the mounting I used the location as the recording camera , using a special mounting bracket I made out of FR-4 material. Refer to pictures below for more details.
For the First Person View camera I took the FC109 camera from Hobbyking. It has 600 TV lines resolution and is capable to support PAL or NTSC video output format. This mini camera has a highly sensitive sensor that provides excellent video quality at low illumination, particularly as the camera has been specially tuned for handling light under challenging FPV conditions. Since the camera connection is as simple as plugging the supplied harness into the back and then into the iOSD module system. The camera is robust, easy to install and small enough to fit almost anywhere. For the mounting I used the location as the recording camera , using a special mounting bracket I made out of FR-4 material. Refer to pictures below for more details.
Camera mounting on bracket
The camera is mounted using double sided tape. This tape is sticked on the back side of the camera. In case the double sided tape comes loose, I also used a nylon bolt (3mm) to hold the camera in place. Use a dremel and drill a small hole of 3 mm diameter in the center of the camera backplate. Refer to the pictures below.
The camera is mounted using double sided tape. This tape is sticked on the back side of the camera. In case the double sided tape comes loose, I also used a nylon bolt (3mm) to hold the camera in place. Use a dremel and drill a small hole of 3 mm diameter in the center of the camera backplate. Refer to the pictures below.
Camera mounting bracket and camera are ready for mounting now. Use a Nylon bold 6 mm to mount onto frame.
Use the wiring harnass below to connect the video transmitter with the camera, Video-TX battery, DJI iOSD mini.
Wiring diagram
The wiring diagram between video transmitter, camera, video TX battery and DJI iOSD mini is shown below.
The wiring diagram between video transmitter, camera, video TX battery and DJI iOSD mini is shown below.
